By James & Chloe
After a rather delayed hotel transfer we arrived at Banguwangi Homestay, a small house with a German couple staying in the room next to us and the family relegated to sleeping on the living room floor. We were pretty uncomfortable about this, but our host Desy insisted, I guess they make enough money for it to be worthwhile?

The Ijen Crater is famous for two things; sulphur mining and the lava that burns with a bright blue flame due to the sulphur. Unfortunately, as there had been some rain recently, we were informed that we wouldn’t be able to go hunting for the Blue Fire in the morning as it was too dangerous, so our lovely host lit some sulphur (bought down from Ijen) in the front yard of our homestay…it stank!

After far too little sleep we awoke at 12:30 am, and were bundled into our jeep and driven the hour and a half to base camp for the climb up Ijen. We were given our standard issue torches and gas masks (yes really), and told to come find Desy when we returned. So at 2.30am we began our arduous climb to the summit in the pitch black!

Now, in terms of distance, it may not be very far from the entrance to the crater, but in terms of height, it covers a huge amount of ground! Most of the climb up consisted of 30-45 degree slopes (if you google this, you’ll see how steep that actually is!) On our way up we encountered some very smiley, friendly local men with no gas masks and wearing only trainers or flip-flops. Whilst some carried baskets, others worked in a team of two to haul an empty cart up the steep slopes (just think of those huge hand trailers used at Glastonbury and other festivals, but much less shiny and new). These spindly, smiley, flip-flopped guys were the miners! In fact, as we worked our way up to the crater, they kept asking us if we’d like a taxi. We initially thought they were joking (everyone in Indonesia seems to offer you a taxi as you walk past), but it turns out, for a small fee they would push/drag you up the steep slopes in their carts. They had calves of steel! These guys make this trip up and down the steep slopes of Ijen at least once a day, shifting a minimum of 160kg of sulphur out of the crater in a single morning just to make enough money to survive. It put our aching calves into perspective.

After a tortuously steep climb on (mercifully) surprisingly well-maintained mud path, we arrived at the crater, strapped up in our gas masks against the noxious gases and sat down to try to distinguish the blue fire from the plumes of sulphuric fumes that were emanating from a far-off patch of darkness. If we squinted juuuust right, we could make out the distant flicker of blue flames, but unfortunately, we weren’t allowed down into the crater for a closer look. We gave up at 4.30am and made our way up to the ridge (more climbing!), where one can see the sunrise.

We pitched up on a cold patch of concrete and, as the first people there, got the best spot for the glorious sunrise over the sea to Bali. The sunrise was beautiful, but it was freezing, and James’ teeth were chattering by the time the sun finally rose enough to warm us up.

Once the sun was up we turned around and explored the other side of the ridge. And boy, were we glad we did! The sunlight had an otherworldly feel to it, with a slight mist adding a golden glow to the 6am sunlight. I can honestly say, I don’t think we’ve been anywhere that took our breath away quite as much as the sun hitting the Ijen crater and beautiful scenery behind it. The beautiful creamy turquoise lake you can see in the photos is renowned for changing colour depending on the concentration of sulphur in the water; the lighter the colour the higher the content. If it’s white, get off the mountain immediately!

Once the clouds rolled in and began to obscure the crater itself we headed back down to the ‘Blue Fire viewing point’ and saw the miners in action. Using basic tools, and two bamboo baskets hung on a long stick over the shoulders (as you would two milk pails), they mined huge chunks of sickly yellow sulphur out of this crater and lugged their 80-100kg loads up the steep crater rim. Think of them the next time you spark a match…

On our way down we saw those who didn’t think the sunrise was worth getting up so early for making their way up (more fool them!! As the crater was now covered in clouds). Whereas we had walked up on our own two feet, these people chose a much more decadent form of transportation.

 

We could not fathom how they could sit there whilst four poor locals lugged them up and down the mountain, changing shoulders every 200 meters because it hurt too much. Each time we passed them- with their looks of haughty indifference on their faces, their noses in their iPhones- James couldn’t resist greeting them as either “M’lord” or “M’lady” (much to Chloe’s chagrin). I suppose it was a way of making money for the guys and it beat hacking at sulphur, but still. More white man’s guilt… it leaves such a bitter taste in one’s mouth.

On our way back to pick up our bags, we pulled over to the side of the road, on one side a Java coffee plantation, and on the other, a rubber plantation. It was strange to tap a tree and feel the fresh rubber ooze onto your finger.

So after waking up at 12:30am, and arriving back to our accommodation at 9:30, with just 10 minutes to pack up, we got a taxi to the ferry terminal, a ferry over to Bali, and a five-hour minibus ride once on the other side to Denpesar to meet Rosanna (James’ sister). We then passed out in our hotel after an incredible, but long day!

 

Which is where we will pick things up next time.

All our love,

The Backpack Duo x